Well and pump problems

Found a great site today that helps with diagnosing water well and pump problems, called Inspectapedia:

http://inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Information.htm

Sounds like a great new word for Scrabble too!

NAS error - You require permission from UNIX

This is an error you will see in Windows, usually followed by a particular user (either ROOT or NOBODY), and the type of action you were trying to take (delete, edit, save) on a file. You would get this error when attempting such an operation against a personal NAS, a Network Attached Storage server, which is basically a device on your home network with hard drives you can access over the network through Windows shares (CIFS) or FTP.

I ran across this with my iOmega iConnect. This is a relatively cheap yet cool little device with 4 usb ports on it. You pop it on your wifi or wired network and plug in some external drives or usb thumb drives even, and then it serves all that storage up. It has some performance foibles, and the security can be a little hairy, but for the most part it works great.

Until I ran into this error. For one of the computers accessing files on one of the drives, it wasn’t able to edit, move or delete certain files.

When I googled the error, I found out that this problem is very common, and is not limited to my particular personal NAS, but occurs with many different ones.

It’s pretty well known that these little network devices tend to have Unix or Linux at the core. There are tons of embeddable distros that are very mature and stable. Thus the error makes perfect sense, and we can guess that Windows and Unix are having a misunderstanding about file permissions, which considering they have different file permission systems, is not surprising.

There was one post I found that went a little deeper into what the particular incompatibility is:

http://forums.seagate.com/t5/BlackArmor-NAS-Network-Storage/File-Access-Denied-quot-You-require-permission-from-UNIX-root-to/td-p/95048

Here’s a quote from the relevant portion, “ it has to do the EXT file system the NAS uses and inherent limitations, the fact that these files are hidden to Unix “ … ”If you gained root access via Linux and mounted the EXT partition then you probably could do this”

So all that being said, none of the fixes or workarounds mentioned in the various posts, including running “ATTRIB Z:\*.* -a -r -s -h -i /S /D” on the whole drive, worked for me. What did eventually work, was to pull the drive from the NAS and mount it to a pc locally via USB, and to move all the files out of what were essentially old system folders (My Documents, My Music, My Pictures, etc.) into new standard folders. Then a second step that was required, was to go into Windows on the machine that was having problems with the files, and get rid of all previous relevant cached share connections ( http://superuser.com/questions/63190/windows-7-cached-network-share-credentials ), and reboot and make a brand new share connection.

iPad3 Cases

Anybody else cursing Apple for all the secrecy? Sure it makes for a splashy product launch. But all the accessory partners have to wait until the retail device starts selling TO BEGIN DESIGNING new companion products. So there’s nothing for months as we have to wait for the whole process including manufacturing and getting the product to retail.

So here I am with this great new iPad3 (yes I know the deal with the name, think of it as an alias). I don’t want to touch it, or take it anywhere, because of the lack of case. I’m bound to either drop it, or spill caustic sauce of some kind on it.

Things are worse this cycle, because the outer dimension changes were miniscule. That means that many of the ipad2 accessories almost fit. I ruined an iPad2 screen protector trying to get an iPad2 case on the iPad3.

In fact I tried several iPad2 cases, and the difference makes a difference. So buyer beware. I’ve been holding out buying any more cases until the iPad3 cases come out, until last night. I had a chance to actually go to Best Buy http://www.bestbuy.com where I could “touch before I buy”. All the iPad2 cases are labeled “works with New iPad”. It’s literally a sticker that they slapped on them.

But I found a case that meets my needs. The specific quality that’s important to me and hard to find, is a case that protects the sides completely, all the way up onto the screen, without messing up the screen protector or adding a ton of bulk and weight. The trend lately seems to be to protect the back and just barely come up around the corners. I had such a case for my iPad2, and the iPad got dented when it dropped on a corner.

The case I found is the Griffin Elan Folio Slim http://store.griffintechnology.com/elan-folio-slim . It’s a folio (cover folds around like a book). The magnetic off, in fact, does not work, but that is not important to me. It has serious side protection and even protects the face by being raised on the edge of the face, plus there’s an actual tuck-in tab where the iPad is inserted, which most do not have. Yet it does not make the iPad feel appreciably heavier or bigger. The case looks like leather, with a microsuede interior, but according to the documentation it’s polyurethane. It has a built in landscape stand.

I’m actually pairing this case with a Amazon sleeve bag http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Netbook-10-Inch-Netbooks-Touchpad/dp/B002VPE1Q6 for even more protection, as I plan to carry it with me a lot. Besides protection this adds a handle and an accessory compartment.

One piece of advice I could add is to check prices before you buy.

• http://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Elan-Folio-Black-GB03440/dp/B005G2QXTY/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333996679&sr=1-2
• http://www.amazon.com/Elan-Folio-Slim-iPad-Blk/dp/B005G2R4IS/ref=sr_1_20?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333996679&sr=1-20
• http://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Elan-Folio-Black-GB02446/dp/B004RE282I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333996679&sr=1-1
• http://www.amazon.com/GRIFFIN-GB02446-IPAD-ELAN-FOLIO/dp/B004VFG9BY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333996679&sr=1-4

Gaming laptops 2012

Most times when I recommend laptops I just tell people to take the best deal at NewEgg in the $500-600 range for Toshiba or Acer. In the past I have recommended Dell when they were on top of the market, and then HP, both more expensive, but right now Acer build quality seems to be the best for the money.

However I've got a couple of friends who are gamers. Here is a recommendation I made in 2010 for one of them: http://iponderus.com/2010/09/gaming-laptops.html . We're going to build on and update that post today, as one of those gamers had their custom-built desktop die and they are looking for a laptop.

Gaming laptops are a breed apart. You really have to dive in and understand the current market to get the best deal and the best machine. You have to get the ebb and flow of each key part in order to understand their relative merit to the whole.
 
I started out looking at MSI and Asus machines at NewEgg. The MSI machines had great specs but seemed to be really poorly put together- lots of flimsy plastic with LEDs flashing everywhere. The Asus machines looked better but had a fatal flaw - the video card they were using, the Nvidia GTX 560M, had been choked from a 192 bit pipeline to 128 bit, even though the video memory was bumped from 1.5 GB to 2 GB. All the forums indicated this would hobble the card.

From there I was able to guess at a current price range for a low-end-of-the-high-end gaming laptop, $1100-1500. I prefer to stay one step down from the deluxe, and one step behind the cutting edge. That avoids what I call the stupid tax on both of those levels. The next step was to see what that would buy me in the custom laptop market, where you get to choose the parts that go into your Compal or Clevo base model (see my earlier post mentioned above for the background on them).

In order to hit that target price, I decided on a particular base Clevo model that had been out awhile, but had been updated to the latest chipset, so that it could take the latest and greatest video cards and processors. I also preferred the build quality of that model to anything else out.

http://www.clevo.com.tw/en/products/prodinfo_2.asp?productid=308

Next I began to compile a list of the latest custom builders, and which ones were still offering that platform:

• http://rjtech.com/shop/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=30027
• http://www.mythlogiccorp.com/configure.php?id=84
• http://www.avadirect.com/shopping_cart.asp
• http://www.cyberpowerpc.com/system/Xplorer_X6-9300_Gaming_Notebook/
• http://www.malibal.com/boutique/pc/configurePrd.asp?idProduct=285

I should note that the one I decided on, based on lowest price, everything else being pretty similar across the vendors, was Malibal, the last in that list.

I also checked out a couple of other builders, who didn't offer that model, but did have a slightly newer one:

http://www.xoticpc.com/sager-np8150-clevo-p150hm-p-2972.html?wconfigure=yes

http://www.pro-star.com/index.cfm?mainpage=serial-price&serial=P150HM&promoteid=90000364&screenid=13116906&cpuid=30151612&hdid=40112658&cdromid=20074691&ramid=80117626&batteryid=10140100

I couldn't compare Sager, where I bought my last gaming laptop, because they only had a much newer model at a higher pricepoint: http://www.sagernotebook.com/

Now if you are coming to this post awhile after it is written, then those links will probably fail, however you can still check out the builders by just going to www.<builder>.com, or whatever the root of the domain is.

Thoughts on parts:

You can compare performance and specs on parts at http://www.notebookcheck.net . They'll show you how the cpu or video card you are interested in compares to others that are currently out.

Here's what I decided on from all the options:

• Display: 15.6" 1920 x 1080
• Cpu: Intel® Core™ i7-2670QM, 6MB L3 Cache, 2.2-3.1GHz
• Memory: (8GB) 1333MHz DDR3 (2 of 4)
• Graphics Card: NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 560M 1.5GB GDDR5
• Hard Drive: 500GB 7200rpm 2.5" SATA 300
• Optical Drive Bay: 8X Multi DVD+/-R/RW RAM Dual-Layer Drive
• Wireless: Intel® 6230 Advanced-N 802.11A/B/G/N LAN and Bluetooth Card

Display: I've had both 12" and the 17" machines. The tiny ones are impossible to see or get anything done with, and the big ones are too big to haul around or use on your lap. This is a high resolution for a 15", but I don't expect the screen to be used much at a desk (where there will be a big external monitor). The key is this is native 1080p resolution, which at some point is going to be good for watching movies.

Cpu: This is an i7, and the 2 in the beginning of the model indicates 2nd (the most recent) generation. Q means quad (four) cores rather than 2, and the M is for Mobile. It "turbos" from 2.2 to 3.1 if a single core is getting used heavily. This seems like the current sweet spot - way up there because it is i7 quad , but not in the upper echelon with the "hyperthreading" models.

Memory: I'm interested to see the machine making use of this much RAM, it wasn't that long ago that 2G was plenty, and you only got 4G if you were planning to run VMs. But now there are consumer (gaming) machines with 16GB and 32 GB. I went for 8 because like I said, I'm unsure how it is going to use all that. There are two open slots in this machine, so I can bump up later if need be.

Graphics: GTX 5XX is Nvidia's most recent high-end mobile series. There are two more bumps above the 560 (M again is mobile), 570 and 580. They tend to cost another $100 and then another $300-400. Looking at the performance gains it seemed to me you didn't get much more for the extra money. Furthermore in reading reviews, it seemed like any current game screamed with this card, and so there should be some future-proofing there (as much as you get with any video card).

Storage: I just picked a middle of the road 7200rpm drive, as what is really needed is an SSD, but the prices are still insane. This would be a good future upgrade, and in fact I think there's an extra bay, so you can have both (SSD for speed and HD for size).

Optical: Blue Ray is still so expensive. I would look at adding an external one later if it was needed.

Wireless: This is a small matter, but it shows the kind of attention to detail you need to have for this. If you take the lower standard option, or the deluxe option above this, you do not get internal Bluetooth. Only this option includes it for some reason.

Finally, I’ll note that I was able to put together a screaming system (in my opinion, and just based on specs) for the low end of my price range. Everybody will have their own preferences, but I hope some of the reasoning presented, will aid in making informed choices. I do believe when you start talking higher-end laptops, that going custom is a good decision.

Install Win8 Consumer Preview 32 bit in VmWare Player 4

Most of the posts I looked at for installing win8 on VmWare mentioned the term "slam dunk". Not so much for me.

Here's the resource that eventually helped me out, even though it is for VmWare Workstation and the dev preview instead:

http://www.mywindowsclub.com/resources/5081-Install-Windows-VMWare-Workstation.aspx

I'll try to detail where I went wrong, and what the keys were to getting back on track. First let me note that I believe you need to upgrade to at least Player 4 for this to work.

Wrong:
1. Choosing "Other" as the OS - you can install Windows 8 like that, but you won't get the "tools", which for me meant no networking.

2. So then I chose Win7, but pointed to my ISO in the VM setup. That led to the player running an unattended install file for win7 on top of the win8 setup. That kept failing and looping with an error on the product key. There seem to be indications that "removing" the "floppy" in the hardware portion of the VM setup can help with that, but it didn't help me.

Right:
Choose "Win7 as the OS (with the 32 bit win8). But choose operating system as None/Do later. Then mount the iso as the dvd after the VM fails to boot, and restart the VM. You wind up in setup without the unattended install script, but with win7 VmWare tools, which is exactly what you want.

Good luck, I'm off to play with win8!

Travel Time

One thing I do with my calendar, that I don’t see anyone else do, is I include travel time. This actually makes calendaring very complicated, because it’s not a native part of the various calendar applications.

For instance, if Mr. Everyman has a doctor’s appointment at 11:30am, he probably make a calendar entry “DOCTOR” starting 11:30, ending at noon or 12:30, depending on the circumstances.

For me that calendar entry would start at 10:30am, and end at 1:30 or 2pm, and be labeled, “DOCTOR 11:30”. This gives me an hour travel window on each side, and also takes into account an involved visit or perhaps a side trip to get a prescription filled.

I feel doing it this way is necessary, so that I can see possible conflicts, without diving into the details of every appointment. Just from the blocks of time I can tell instantly.

Where this often creates a problem, is that the wonderful advanced wizards built into our calendaring programs want to helpfully pull any date-like values from the text and create/adjust the start time based on them. So I put start time at 10:30, and then write “doctor 11:30” and the wizard changes the start time on me. It is possible to get around this usually by formatting the time in the text strange enough for the wizard to not recognize it. But what a pain.

Another shortcoming is that I can’t tell easily when an appointment actually does start. Talk about wanting to have my cake and eat it too.. This method also matches up poorly when I sync or import other calendars, which of course don’t abide by such a convention, or when others want to access my calendar, and can’t figure it out.

I’m not expecting any solutions to this dilemma, I just wanted to point it out, as I’m usually campaigning for simplifying these global PIM tools so that we can have better standardization, but here I am looking for a whole new layer of fields. Classic!

Please let it be aliens

Yes the podcasts I listen to are full of geeks and nerds. But where else can you hear things like the following:

Paul says, "please let it be aliens", to which Mary Jo replies, "even better Paul, there's a Windows Azure Data Market connection!"

http://twit.tv/show/windows-weekly/239

Windows 7 folders

In lieu of anything new and interesting to write about, I thought I would mention that this nugget from 2007 seems to still be relevant, and still fixes the problem - http://iponderus.com/2007/11/vista-folder-template-views.html . This will interest you if the folder details view you get with pictures and music annoys you – listing artist and track or date taken and resolution, instead of the standard size, type, and date modified. The worst annoyance is when you adjust it on a folder, and it goes back when you click into a subfolder. This procedure fixes it all, at least for awhile, as Windows has a tendency to reset these templates every so often, perhaps based on updates.

Find My iPhone to the rescue

Couldn’t find the iPhone. Knew it was somewhere in the house. On vibrate so calling it wasn’t helping. Checked Find My iPhone (new iCloud feature). The GPS couldn’t really narrow it down further than the house. Noticed a feature “Play Sound”. Clicked it and had the phone seconds later, despite the fact that it was on vibrate, as a nice clear ding noise at full volume was played over and over. Very cool!

iPhone Recorded Video Problems

“Someone I know” recorded some video on the iPhone of a special family moment. They held the iPhone up and down as you would usually hold it (except when watching a movie or YouTube, etc.).

I moved the video off the phone, in order to share it with family and friends. I discovered not only was the aspect ratio of the video backwards, but the video played sideways (correcting the aspect issue) in most standard video-playing software (besides iTunes and Quicktime).

So I thought “Handbrake” of course, because I was planning to make the file size smaller for uploading anyhow. Long story short I was frustrated and denied that day. I ended up settling for WMVs from Windows Live Movie Maker, and they came out awful.

Fast forward a couple of months (sometimes it helps to let a problem stew for awhile). Some more Google searches, and I came across a free, open source tool called “avidemux” (http://avidemux.sourceforge.net). It flipped the video (back to being taller than wider) and then even allowed me to crop (the top and bottom of) the video so as to fix the aspect ratio. Genius!

So if you happened to take video with the iPhone up and down, and want to share it but either the non-standard aspect ratio is a problem, or the video appears flipped on it’s side, try avidemux.